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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.